Испанские амфоры, известные как тинахас, пришли на смену баррикам на винодельне Элизабетты Форадори в Трентино.
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- Журнал: Выпуск май 2018 г.
Саймон Вульф расследует сообщения о контрреволюции в итальянских винных погребах ...
В фильме Паоло Казалиса 2014 года есть короткий, но драматический момент. Мальчики Бароло: История революции когда винодел Элио Альтаре ведет бензопилу к внушительной линейке ботти (традиционных больших дубовых бочек), стоящих в погребе его семьи.
Его ритуальное уничтожение этих почтенных сосудов, проведенное в 1983 году, имело практическую цель - освободить место для недавно приобретенных барриков из французского дуба меньшего размера. Но мощный символизм был очевиден - якобы зловонные, разлагающиеся ботти олицетворяли старый порядок. Линии безупречных, недавно заклеенных барриков явно отражали современность и стиль.
Прокрутите вниз, чтобы увидеть подборку итальянских вин, сделанных без дуба, от Woolf.
То, что казалось передовым в 1983 году, к концу 1990-х стало обязательным для престижных итальянских виноделен. Но в последнее время решительная дубовая ласка баррика потеряла популярность от Фриули на северо-востоке до Сицилии на юге и во всех точках между ними.
Итальянские виноделы все чаще переходят на альтернативные материалы и сосуды для брожения и выдержки, от непонятных до необычных.
Там, где когда-то стояли баррики, теперь могут быть амфоры, грузинские квеври, бетонные яйца или большие бочки из акации. Является ли это просто цикличным движением беговой дорожки моды или частью более решительного движения к большей аутентичности и самовыражению?
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